Soy Wax Melts Guide and FAQ

Soy Wax Melts Guide and FAQ

Below is a guide to making wax melts - this is only a guide - there are many variables to consider when making melts - practice is key and we very much recommend you test your method on small batches.

You will need;

  • A good quality thermometer
  • Accurate Scales
  • A heat proof jug
  • Soy wax - we recommend Golden Wax 494 for melts
  • Quality Fragrance oil 
  • Mould(s) of your choice


  • Colour
  • Glitter
  • Mica powder

How to make your melts

Start by heating your wax to 80/85 degrees celsius until it melts.

While your wax is melting, weigh out 10% fragrance oil e.g. 100g of wax – 10g fragrance oil

If you are using dye chips to colour, add to wax once melted.

Allow your wax to cool to 60/70 degrees celsius, add your chosen fragrance oil (liquid dyes and mica should also be added at this point).

Stir your chosen fragrance oil into the wax thoroughly for a minimum of 2 mins.

Allow the wax to cool to 55/60 degrees celsius and pour slowly into the mould(s) from a low height.

Best practice would be to test your melts at set intervals after making to see how strong the scent is.

Some wax requires longer curing times, curing allows the scent and wax to bind giving an overall stronger long lasting scent. Testing at intervals of 48 hours, 1 week & 2 weeks would give you an idea of what works best for your chosen wax.

Temperatures play a huge part in a good scent throw, testing is crucial, test adding oils at 70 for a batch, 65, 60 degrees and record your findings. 

If you encounter any issues please refer to the Frequently Asked Questions below

Most of all enjoy yourself!


Soy Wax Melts FAQ’s & Troubleshooting

My soy wax seems to have white patches when set?

This is referred to as “Frosting”. Soy wax as a natural product is prone to frosting as it cools, this won't effect your overall scent throw.

There are various measures to help combat frosting – Room temperature and draughts: ensure the wax isn’t cooling too quickly, ensure no windows or doors are open near the making area. Pour the wax at low temperature’s, 55 degrees and slowly.

My melts don’t smell strong?

Have the melts cured for the correct time? Most soy wax requires 2 weeks cure time. Once made put the melts away - a standard Tupperware tub will be fine. Allow the wax and scent to bind.

If the melts have been cured try adding the oil at different temperature’s and record your findings, recommended temperature’s would be 70 degrees, 65 degrees and 60 degrees celsius.

*Also note some fragrance oils are just lighter in scent than others.

My wax feels greasy to touch?

Ensure your fragrance oil is measured in Grams not ml, some oils are denser than others and will weigh more, 10ml isn’t always 10g, weigh in grams to ensure you don’t overload your wax.

My melts have always looked great and all of a sudden I have frosting?

Seasonal temperature changes will effect the wax. If your room temperature is warmer increase your pouring temperature to match this change.

The colour of my melts isn’t as dark as I would like?

Keep a white piece of paper/kitchen roll close. Once the colour has been added drop a small amount of wax onto the white piece of paper to view the colour once set. If it’s too light add more colour, repeat this process until you’re happy with the shade.

Can container wax be used for melts?

Container wax is perfect for candle making. It has good adhesion to the candle mould, in melts this can cause the wax to stick to the mould. Container waxes are not ideal for wax melts.

My wax is dipping once its set?

Pouring too hot can cause this; another pour over the dipping will solve the issue or adjusting your pouring temperature will help.

What wax is the best for melts?

Unfortunately every wax maker will give a different answer, what works for one person, doesn’t for another, test your wax, play with your temperature’s, the best wax is the one that gives you the best overall results.



Ambleside Candles

Ambleside Candles

Check out the fantastic work by Francesca at Ambleside Candles made using LiveMoor products.
How to Make Soap

How to Make Soap

When it comes to making your own soap, it’s often best to start off simple. That’s why we’ve compiled a recipe below using a simple glycerin base. But as you get more experienced in the process of soap making, it’s easier to take liberties with your recipe with changes in oils, scents, or other additives.

Combining different oils will lend your final product different characteristics. Some oils will help make your bars harder or will provide a better lather. On the other hand, oils like olive and coconut will create the chemical reaction that actually turn all these liquids into soap. Other materials like shea butter will offer moisturising qualities.

With that preface, let’s take a deeper look into how to actually make your first bars of soap.

Gather Your Ingredients

Grab all the materials you’ll need to cook up your first batch. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Glycerin base: Grab a bulk amount from us here
  • Stir sticks: You can acquire these from almost any grocery store or from LiveMoor here.
  • Essential oils: Again, these are available from us here.
  • Rubbing alcohol: Any pharmacy or DIY store will have bottles of this readily available.
  • Microwave-safe containers: If you don't have one already, any kitchen supplier will have these available.
  • Moulds: You can be creative here as there are all sorts of options - choose a simple square mould or go for something a little more exciting!


making soap


Once you’ve gathered your materials, next you need to cut and melt down your glycerin base. Cut small chunks of glycerin, place them in your microwave-safe container, and microwave for 30 seconds.


Stir and Combine


soap making 3


Use one of the stir sticks to stir the melting glycerin base and continue to microwave for short spurts until the base is fully melted throughout. Then stir in several drops of your chosen essential oil and combine.

While those ingredients are combining, use a spray bottle to spritz rubbing alcohol on your moulds to prevent any bubbles from forming in your bars of soap.


Pour and Let Set


Soap making 4


Once the ingredients are combined and the moulds are ready, pour the contents into the moulds and allow to cool and set. When the bars have hardened, pop them out of the moulds and your bars are complete. From here, simply lather, rinse, and repeat.


soap making 5

Additional Recipes


Want some ideas on ways to tweak this recipe to make it your own? Here are some options for different essential oils you can switch out to achieve a different scent and feel for your soap bars.


Soap making 6

How to Make Soy Candles

How to Make Soy Candles

How to make candles
How to Make Lip Balm

How to Make Lip Balm

Make your own Lip balm
Friends of LiveMoor - a great response!

Friends of LiveMoor - a great response!

Over the last few months we have been busy collecting information from our customers with a view to creating a "Friends of LiveMoor" page to showcase the many small and large companies who utilise LiveMoor products to make all sorts of interesting things. 

We received a great response and it was exciting to see the range of companies and diverse usage of our products. From the more obvious beauty products and candles to the not so obvious beard grooming products, we found customers using our wax, butters and craft materials both in the UK and abroad for small and large projects alike.

One of the most interesting was a reply we received from the Architectural Association in London who had been using our Beeswax to produce models as part of a project. 

Wax Model

These models really showcase the versatility of wax and the amazing things it can do in the right hands. 



We also received a message from a gentleman named Tim Benfield who is involved in historical re-enactments with a group called Øst Centingas

Tim commented:

"I use your beeswax in my leatherwork. It's fantastic stuff, hardens the final leather product wonderfully and gives it a beautiful colour".

Looking at the pictures Tim sent of a Seax (knife) sheathe he had been working on, we have to agree the leather really does have a beautiful colour!

If you are using any of our products and would like to showcase your company or the products you create please Contact Us and we would be happy to add your name to the list - if you can provide a logo and website address even better!

Thanks to all who have been in touch and keep up the great work!